There is nothing like news of a swell to get surfers spirits up. Especially when we have been having the best weather outside of the Hawaiian Islands but absolutely no waves (knee high). According to the experts we have a couple significant swells coming our way back to back and with all of the Chemistry team in place it looks to be a good time. Cheyne Magnusson, Blake Jones, Chris Abad, and PJ Raia are all in California waiting for this one to serve up its magic. Mike Gleason is looking to log some more water time on his boards over 7’0 in Hawaii. For once everyone is in place to reap the rewards of the North Pacific swell machine. Stay tuned for the results.
Jason Bennett testing his shapes in Baja.
Here is the breakdown without all of the mumbo jumbo courtesy of swellwatch.com.
Wednesday the 19th should see the next WNW swell come ashore, bringing west facing breaks into surf running 1-3′ overhead, possibly bigger at times at standouts. Direct south facing breaks should easily see chest high sets out of this, bigger at standouts/dual exposure breaks.
Thursday the 20th should still see at least head high swell at west facing breaks, likely a foot or two overhead on the better sets at standout west facing spots. Note that wind swell may also come into the picture Thursday.
Friday the 21st should see west facing breaks drop to chest to head high max. Note that some forerunners/rogue waves from Saturday’s swell may start hitting SoCal late in the day.
Saturday the 22nd should see NW swell build throughout the day. So far, west facing breaks are looking like at least head high in the early AM, and a couple feet overhead in the afternoon. Rogue waves are highly likely throughout the day.
Sunday the 23rd is, so far, looking like the peak day of this NW’er.